There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. OK, there’s no such thing as bad clothing (except maybe in the seventies), but there is definitely inappropriate clothing. What works for me may not work for everyone, but this guide should get you started. If you’ve never run in cold weather before, it’s a good idea to start a running journal to record the temperature, what you wore, and whether it worked for you or not. Then next year, you can refer back to your journal to dress appropriately.
A good rule of thumb is to add 10 degrees to the outside temperature, and dress for that, since you’ll warm up while running. Even though I’m always cold when I’m not exercising, when I run, I run hot, so I personally add 20 degrees to the current temperature. You should be shivering for the first few minutes of your run: if you’re comfortable when you step out the door, you’re going to boil after a kilometer or two once you’ve warmed up. And pay attention to the wind-chill: it may be only -5C (23F) outside, but -13C (-9F) with winds gusting at 30km/hr (19mph). Get a weather app that shows both. The Three W’s of Cold-Weather Layering: Wicking (inner layer): A thin, long-sleeved shirt or tights made of a material that wicks sweat away from your body. Sweaty fabric can cause chafing, and being wet means you’ll get cold faster. You’ll notice that wicking fabric will become wet on the outside of the cloth, while staying dry next to your body. Good wicking materials are synthetics (my preference), or merino wool. Merino wool fibres are cone-shaped so they draw the dampness away to the outer edge of the fibres (this is how the sheep stay warm). Whatever you do, don’t wear cotton. It soaks up sweat like nobody’s business, and holds it against your skin. Warmth (second layer): This should also be made of a wicking material, but heavier. Some shirts and tights are fleece-lined. This is the layer I usually forgo on days warmer than -10C (14F). Wind-Resistance (top layer): A thin, windproof shell jacket or tights for temperatures above -10C (14F); or heavier, wind-resistant coats and running pants for colder temperatures. Some jackets come with hoods and face protection. Look for reflective strips and bright colours for better visibility during dark winter morning and evening runs. You don’t want this layer to be waterproof, only water-resistant, so it stays breathable. There are some true waterproof jackets out there, but they’re usually quite expensive due to taped seams, etc, and rarely offer enough breathability for us sweaty runners. Unless you live in an area that frequently gets torrential downpours, I wouldn’t recommend these. You’ll Also Need: Socks: Above -10C (14F) I wear my everyday wicking running socks; in colder temperatures I pull on taller, double-layer synthetic socks. Some people swear by merino wool socks. When it’s colder than -25C (-13F), I wear two pairs of double-layer socks. To accommodate this extra fabric, the running shoes I wear in the winter are half a size larger than those I wear during the rest of the year. Underwear and sports bras: These should also be moisture-wicking. Men’s technical underwear is available in wind-resistant and warmer options for cold weather. When I run in an old bra during the winter (which is tempting, because heck, no one’s going to see it, so what if it’s faded and has a few loose threads?), I usually regret it because, over time, the moisture-wicking properties of technical clothes can be lost. Which brings me to ... Taking care of your technical wear: The most important thing to know is the moisture-wicking properties of technical fabrics can be ruined by putting them in the dryer, especially if you toss in a fabric-softener sheet along with them. The best way to make sure this doesn’t happen: wash your running clothes separately in cold water (no liquid fabric-softener, either) and hang or lay them flat to dry. Annoying, I know, but you don’t want to drop $100 on a technical shirt only to clog up its moisture-wicking pores with fabric softener in the first wash. Gloves/Mitts: From 0C (32F) to -10C (14F) I wear thin, wicking, wind resistant running gloves. Below -10C (14F) I pull out a pair of heavier, wicking mittens, and below -20C (-4F) I wear super-warm, heavy-duty, fleece-lined, wind-resistant mittens, and I add in an air-activated hand warmer like Hot Shots. This may be overkill for you, but if you have poor circulation or Raynaud’s Syndrome like me, your fingers will need the extra heat. I recommend against wearing gloves, even heavy ones, in very cold temperatures, because in general, fingers have a hard time generating and holding onto heat when separated. Head, Ear & Face Protection: From 0C (32F) to 10C (14F) I use a headband (Buff is my favourite brand since they’re versatile, can be used to protect ears, head, neck, face) or a thin, moisture-wicking hat. Under -10C (14F) I prefer to wear my Buff on my face & neck, and add a heavier toque to cover my head and ears. Still, I often find myself pulling the toque off mid-way through my run because I get overheated. Below -25C (-13F) I use a moisture-wicking ski-mask to protect my forehead, cheeks, and nose; or, if I think a mask might be a bit much, I’ll wear the Buff/toque combo, and apply petroleum jelly on any exposed facial skin. I usually race with Vaseline on my face instead of a ski-mask since I run harder and become hotter during races than during long slow distance runs. Bonus: after I get home and shower, my skin is extra soft! Shoes: I’ll address shoes in detail in another blog post, but in brief, you can use your regular running shoes year-round as long as you choose thicker, higher socks to provide extra warmth and skin protection. Since last year, I’ve worn water-resistant running shoes in the winter (I’m faithful to my beloved New Balance 880’s, and lucky for me, the 880v7 GTX model features a breathable, waterproof GORE-TEX upper) and I know many people love the Saucony Peregrine Ice+ or other brands like the Brooks Ghost 12 GTX. I like the waterproofing to keep my Raynaud’s Syndrome-frostbite-prone toes dry and warm on slushy days. My NB 880v7 GTX also have a bit of extra grip in the soles to provide better traction on ice and snow. But most of my running pals wear their normal shoes and are just fine. Traction: On icy days, the most important part of your running gear is a pair of traction devices that stretch over or attach to your shoes to give them extra grip in slippery conditions. These range from the economical brand I prefer, to quite expensive thicker and beefier pairs. I like ones with short spikes attached to thin rubber straps: they’re easy to put on, take off, tuck away into a pocket when I’m not using them, are lightweight, give great traction, and if I lose one in the snow, it doesn’t cost me an arm and a leg to replace. I’ve had bad experiences with the coiled variety: the coils flattened as I ran, causing me to slip sideways, and the thick rubber toe strap kept slipping off my small, girly feet. You may come across heavy-duty brands made from chains and long spikes: I find these too much for road running, but are useful for mountain or trail running. There are also ice spikes that screw directly into the soles of your shoes: I haven’t tried these, but if you have, leave a comment below and let me know what you think. With some planning and experimentation, even cold weather-haters (like me!) can safely enjoy running outdoors all year. Now slap on some Vaseline and get out there!
8 Comments
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AuthorKathy Istace runs and races in one of the coldest cities on earth. Archives
December 2020
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